"The mosquitos will kill you." This is the most frequent warning we received in Provence when we said we were going to visit a rice field in Camargue, at sunset. Camargue is a marsh, hard to live in for humans, but the right place to grow rice.
Passing through the paddies to arrive at Bernarde Pujol's s farm, we start noticing something unusual. Ducks swim through the rice rows, walk on the street, and crowd around the feeder, jumping on each other to get to the food.
As we arrive in his courtyard, Bernarde invites us in his living room to escape the mosquito attack while he tells his story. He is a tall and solid man in his fifties. He speaks slowly, his voice is firm and passionate. He started, like many, as a conventional farmer, but at a certain point he realized that something was wrong. To grow rice and control weeds you need a lot of pesticides and herbicides. "Anything that ends in ‘cides’ is too close to the word homicide. Agriculture is killing us", he said, and I had the impulse to clap my hands.
Growing rice organically is difficult, so Bernarde decided to take a risk and experiment with a Japanese method he heard about: using ducks instead of pesticides to control weeds and bugs. After a long period of collecting information and experimenting, he developed his own method using a sterile duck breed that doesn’t like eating rice. Swimming all day long in the paddies, they prevent the growth of bad weeds and the attack of unwanted insects. At the end of the season, he sells the ducks for meat.
After a long chat we went out to the fields, but only after spraying an insane amount of bug spray all over our bodies and clothes. The sun was about to set and the mosquito invasion was starting. Seeing how much work there is behind a bag of rice explains why Bernarde is the only one using this method in France, and maybe even in Europe. There is a long process of preparing the land, seeding it, letting the rice germinate, and then covering the paddy in water and leaving the ducks to do their job. His effort has started to be recognized, people appreciate and buy his rice, understanding that the higher price reflects a higher value.
Even if he is alone in Provence, Bernarde is in touch with some farmers in Senegal who are learning the rice production method from him. He has also gotten to know some rice producers that use ducks in Japan, with whom he exchanges suggestions and visits.
Heading back to the house I got a ride with Bernarde’s intern, a student of the university of agriculture. I had this privilege not because the mosquitos knocked me out, but thanks to a twisted ankle. We talked about how hard Bernard's job is, and how none of his sons seem willing to continue the work. These are not reasons for him to give up, instead he is even more persuaded to share his knowledge and to keep working toward a cleaner and less polluting method of agriculture.
We didn't have the occasion to taste the rice on the farm, so I bought a bag to try it at home, and to honor Bernarde's dedication. I waited some months before tasting the rice, searching for the right occasion, and saving it as a precious good. It is a long grain variety, rich in flavor and aroma. The grain remains whole after the cooking, without getting sticky. It doesn't need too much condiment to be enjoyed, and it turned out to be a great risotto rice, taking on a nice nutty flavor. I would be lying if I said that you could really taste the difference from another organic rice, or that you can taste Camargue in it. Nevertheless, Bernarde and his strong persona come out every time I cook it, reminding me of the moment when, before leaving, I took some courage and said to him in my poor French: "Tu es génial."
Benedetta received her Masters in Literature from the University of Bologna. She loves watching independent films alone, and has a deeply-rooted passion for grammar and high standards when it comes to bread and olive oil quality.